Most dark colours need one coat of a tinted primer and undercoat followed by two topcoats. That is the recommendation from Farrow & Ball, and Little Greene advise a minimum of two topcoats too. A third topcoat is sometimes needed, usually when a deep colour goes over a very pale one without the right primer underneath, or when the coats have been rolled on too thinly.
Deep shades have a reputation for being awkward, and it is easy to see why. A first coat of navy or bottle green over white can look patchy and alarming. But that is normal, and with the right preparation it rarely takes more than the standard number of coats to reach a rich, even finish.
Here is why dark colours behave differently, and how to keep the coat count down.
Photo Credit: Farrow & Ball; Colour Used: Hague Blue (30)
Why deep shades need more care
Pale paints get much of their hiding power from the white in the mix, so they cover a light wall easily. A deep colour is built from strong coloured pigments instead, and it has to cover up whatever is underneath, often a white or a pale neutral. Until there is enough depth of paint on the wall, the old colour shows through as a lighter, uneven patch.
Dark colours also show any variation in how the paint has been applied. Thin areas look lighter, and overlaps where the roller has gone back over half-dry paint can catch the light. Neither is a fault in the paint; both are solved by the right base and a steady technique.
Start with the right primer
The single biggest saving comes from what goes on first. All three brands we stock make a primer that can be matched to a deep topcoat.
- Farrow & Ball make their primers and undercoats in four tones, and each colour has a recommended one. Hague Blue (30), for example, takes the Dark Tones primer. The recommendation is one coat of primer in the right tone, then two topcoats. You will find them on our primers page.
- Little Greene say a tinted primer undercoat helps you reach a full and accurate depth of colour. Their Intelligent ASP can be tinted towards your topcoat. Little Greene note that it will look lighter than the finished colour, which is expected.
- Paint & Paper Library advise a coat of Architects' ASP in the same colour beneath Architects' Gloss on new woodwork and aged gloss.
With Little Greene's self-priming Intelligent finishes, a separate primer is usually unnecessary. The exception is exactly this: for deep, dark colours or a big change in colour, a first coat of tinted Intelligent ASP builds depth and can save a third topcoat.
Photo Credit: Little Greene; Colour Used: Obsidian Green (216)
How many coats, brand by brand
- Farrow & Ball Estate Emulsion or Modern Emulsion: one coat of primer and undercoat in the tone recommended for your colour (Dark Tones for shades such as Hague Blue), then two topcoats.
- Little Greene Absolute Matt Emulsion: a tinted undercoat, then a minimum of two coats. Little Greene state that their paints carry up to 40% more pigment than many ordinary paints, which helps.
- Little Greene Intelligent finishes: two coats on a clean, lightly keyed surface, with a first coat of tinted Intelligent ASP for deep colours.
- Paint & Paper Library Architects' Matt and the other Architects' finishes: self-priming on sound surfaces, with Architects' ASP beneath where a stronger base is needed.
Going the other way, from a dark colour to a light one, the primer does the heavy lifting. Little Greene explain that their undercoat is designed to hide the colour beneath before the topcoat goes on.
How to minimise coats
- Use the matched primer. A tinted base is far quicker than a third topcoat.
- Stir thoroughly. Deep colours carry a lot of pigment, and it should be evenly mixed before you begin.
- Apply even, full coats. Load the roller well and spread the paint evenly. Stretching it too far is a common reason for needing an extra coat.
- Keep a wet edge. Work one wall at a time, finishing each section before the edge dries, so that overlaps do not show.
- Let each coat dry fully. A deep colour can look patchy until it is completely dry. Judge it only then, in daylight.
- Buy enough in one go. Having all the paint you need from the start means you never run short halfway across a wall.
Photo Credit: Little Greene; Colour Used: Jack Black (119)
Choosing the finish for a dark colour
Sheen is more noticeable in deep colours, so the finish is worth thinking about. A completely flat paint such as Estate Emulsion or Absolute Matt gives the softest, most velvety depth. In a busy hallway or a bathroom, a tougher finish such as Modern Emulsion, Intelligent Matt Emulsion or Architects' Matt will stand up better to cleaning, at the cost of a very slight sheen.
A dark colour over every surface, walls, woodwork and ceiling alike, is one of the most effective ways to use it. Our guide to colour drenching explains why.
Questions we are often asked
Can I skip the primer if I use three topcoats?
You can, but it is rarely a saving. Primer is designed to block what lies beneath, and Farrow & Ball recommend it for the best finish and depth of colour.
Why does my first coat look patchy?
That is normal with a deep colour over a pale one. Let it dry completely before judging, then apply the second coat.
How much extra paint should I allow?
Allow for two full topcoats across the whole area, plus the primer. A sample pot first will confirm the colour before you commit.
