To paint skirting boards well, clean them, fill and sand any damage, give glossy surfaces a light key, then apply two thin coats of a hard-wearing eggshell or satin, working along the length of the board. Preparation is most of the job: skirting collects more dust, grease and knocks than any other woodwork in the house, and paint only lasts as long as the surface underneath it.
Choose the right finish and the right paint, and a skirting board will look crisp for years. This guide covers both, step by step, along with the mistakes we see most often.
Photo Credit: Paint & Paper Library; Colours Used: Lead V (685), Lead III (683), Lead I (681), Squid Ink (698)
Choosing the right paint and finish
Skirting needs a tough woodwork finish, never a wall emulsion. Eggshell gives a soft, low sheen that sits quietly beside matt walls; satin and gloss are shinier and a little more robust, but show every dent and brush mark underneath.
- Little Greene. Intelligent Eggshell (10 to 15% sheen), Intelligent Satin (30 to 35%) or Intelligent Gloss (87 to 90%). All self-priming: on sound, previously painted skirting you clean, key and apply two coats.
- Paint & Paper Library. Architects' Eggshell (10 to 20% sheen), which they describe as suitable for all interior woodwork, or Architects' Satin (30 to 35%). Both are self-priming on woodwork and need just two coats.
- Farrow & Ball. Flat Eggshell, their flattest interior eggshell at 20% sheen, which Farrow & Ball suggest for skirting boards, doors and radiators, or Modern Eggshell (40%). Use their Wood Primer & Undercoat first, in the colour tone recommended for your topcoat.
How to paint skirting boards, step by step
- Paint the walls first. Work from the top of the room down: ceiling, then walls, then woodwork. Any splashes on the skirting will be painted over.
- Protect the floor. Vacuum along the floor and the top of the board, then lay dust sheets. On carpet, run a wide masking tape along the edge and tuck it under the board with a filling knife.
- Clean thoroughly. Wash the skirting with sugar soap to lift grease and scuffs, rinse with clean water and leave to dry completely.
- Repair. Fill dents and nail holes with a fine filler, and run decorator's caulk along any gap between the top of the board and the wall. Let both dry.
- Key the surface. A light sand with fine sandpaper, just enough to take the shine off old paint and smooth the filler. Vacuum, then wipe away the dust with a damp cloth.
- Prime where needed. Bare wood and knots need attention: seal knots with a knotting solution so resin does not bleed through. With Farrow & Ball, prime the whole board; with the self-priming Little Greene and Paint & Paper Library finishes, sound painted boards go straight to topcoat.
- First coat. Cut in along the top edge with a good angled brush, then paint the face in long strokes along the length of the board, finishing each section with one light stroke in the same direction. Keep the coat thin.
- Second coat. Once the first is dry (1 to 4 hours for Little Greene Intelligent, four hours for Paint & Paper Library Architects'), apply a second thin coat. Peel off the masking tape slowly while the paint is still fresh enough not to tear.
Photo Credit: Paint & Paper Library; Colours Used: Squid Ink (698), Lead I (681), Moleskin (218)
Common mistakes to avoid
- Skipping the clean. Skirting is coated in invisible grease and dust. Paint over it and it will flake.
- Painting over a shine. Old gloss needs a light key so the new paint can grip.
- Thick coats. Heavy paint sags and drips down the face of the board. Two thin coats always look better than one thick one.
- Brushing across the grain. Always finish with strokes along the length of the board.
- Dust and fluff. Vacuum before every coat, and keep pets and feet away while it dries.
- Rushing back the furniture. Paint is dry to the touch long before it is hard. Little Greene give up to seven days for Intelligent finishes to reach full hardness, so push sofas and beds back gently.
What colour to paint skirting boards
White is the traditional choice, and a soft one such as Farrow & Ball Wimborne White (239) or Little Greene Slaked Lime (105) looks fresher and less stark than a brilliant white. More and more people now paint skirting the same colour as the walls, in an eggshell rather than a matt, which makes a room feel larger and calmer; the darker room above shows how well it works. A shade deeper than the walls, such as Little Greene French Grey - Dark (163) beneath French Grey (113), gives quiet definition. Our article on why colour drenching works explores the same-colour approach in more depth.
Photo Credit: Farrow & Ball; Colour Used: Skimming Stone (241)
Questions we are often asked
Do I need to sand skirting boards before painting?
A light sand, yes, to dull any shine and smooth repairs. You are not trying to strip the old paint, only to give the new coat something to grip.
Can I paint water-based paint over old gloss?
Usually, if the old paint is sound: clean it thoroughly, sand it to a dull key and try a small area first. If it is flaking, sand or strip it back. Where adhesion is in doubt, a first coat of Intelligent ASP or Architects' ASP gives a robust base.
Eggshell or satin for skirting?
Eggshell for a soft, modern look that hides small imperfections; satin if your skirting takes a lot of knocks from vacuum cleaners, toys and feet. The method is the same as for furniture, which we cover in our guide to painting IKEA furniture.
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